TIP: Choosing a camera
For most uses, megapixels are not the defining feature. I recommend 4 or above, but higher megapixel DOES NOT equate to better picture, just the ability to make larger prints. A 3.2 megapixel camera with a good color chip prints a beautiful 8x10. A 5 megapixel camera prints a great 11x14.
Optical zoom matters, Digital Zoom is a hoax. Optical zoom is the real deal, but digital zoom is just enlargeing the picture like you would in a PC, and it always gives lower quality to do so. I never even turn on the digital zoom feature in a camera, the same thing can be done in the PC. So, if you shoot wildlife or anything far away you want something with a lot of OPTICAL zoom, like 10x. If you get a camera with lots of optical zoom, you need a good image stabelizer if you are not using a tripod, like the cameras to the right.
THE COLOR CHIPS not all cameras give the same color quality, and not all cameras color quality is as good a year after you buy it as it was when you did. SONY and CANNON tend to have the toughest cameras that do not degrade in my opinion, and I have taken over 500,000 shots with them.
LOOK THROUGH THE LENS: If you get a camera that does not let you look through the lens as well as showing the picture on a screen, you will be very, very sorry when you shoot outdoors when bright light hits the screen, you won't be able to see what you are doing, or what you just shot.
TIPS AND TRICKS for shooting with
digital cameras
Digital photography has come about as a result of the
convergence of both IT and photography. Both technical and
aesthetic aspects of digital photography are derived from
conventional photography, and hence a good knowledge of
photographic skills also help to make or break a picture.
Inevitably, digital photography brings with it new techniques
and means to capture an image. Basic photography skills
such as lighting, exposure and composition are naturally
important. But there are many new areas that a digital photographer
should pay attention to:
1. Shutter Lag
Tip: Keep the camera
still for a few seconds even after you depress the shutter
release button.
For conventional cameras, the time lag from the moment your
finger depresses the shutter release button till the moment
the shutter opens is virtually negligible.
On the other hand, for most digital cameras, there is a
noticeable time lag which varies across the many camera
models. Response time is especially slow on the cheaper
models. For some makes, there are small beeps or clicks
to let the user know when the picture has been taken. For
others, the image taking process is so quiet that you may
not even know if the camera has responded.
You may think that this is an advantage over conventional
SLRs with the noisy slap of the mirror, or the sound of
the shutter of a rangefinder. On the contrary, many professionals
miss the reassuring slap of the mirror in an SLR!
2. Optical vs Digital Zoom
Tip: Try not to use
the digital zoom function.
Cheaper camera models come only with digital zoom, whilst
the high-end ones come with both optical and digital zooms.
Optical zooms work basically like your conventional zoom
lens whereby lens elements in various groups are moved to
change the focal length of the lens.
Digital zooms are only present in digital cameras, and basically
work by utilizing only a smaller portion of the CCD element.
(The CCD, or charge-coupled device, records picture information.)
This reduces the angle of view and hence gives the impression
that you are closing in on a subject far away.
Image quality obviously suffers when a smaller area of the
CCD is used to represent the same image size. There is a
noticeable increase in "noise" in the final image, which
can be compared to graininess in conventional film. Hence,
image quality is high for optical zooms and rather poor
for digital zooms.
3. LCD vs Viewfinder
Tip: Use the LCD for
more accurate frame coverage.
It is true that using the LCD to compose your photographs
is the fastest way to drain your batteries. In fact, it
is advisable to switch off the LCD and use the viewfinder
(for cameras that have a viewfinder!) to conserve battery
life. In addition, most LCDs are very difficult to view
under bright sunlight, and using the viewfinder helps in
composition.
On the other hand, most viewfinders suffer from parallax
error as the image is slightly "off" from the actual image.
This is most prominent when your subjects are closer to
the camera, as in portraiture or macro shots. For accurate
frame coverage, compose your images with the LCD.
4. ISO Setting
Tip: Use the default
ISO setting.
As digital cameras were made for photographers, so-called
film speed settings (based on ISO ratings) were incorporated.
Many digital camera users are stumped as to the need for
ISO when there is no film involved. This is an example of
how legacy requirements affect even the design of new high-technology
products!
Manufacturers of digital cameras usually rate their CCD's
sensitivity to the equivalent of a film's sensitivity. Hence,
if a CCD is rated at ISO 80, this digital camera is as sensitive
to light as a normal film rated at ISO 80 is.
In the more expensive digital camera models, there is usually
an option to increase this ISO setting to perhaps ISO 200,
400 or maybe even more. This gives the photographer more
flexibility for action shots or even for low-light situations.
Unless you really need to, don't change the ISO setting
as it is comparable to pushing a film. You will be able
to get the shot but the results may not be very pleasing
due to increased "noise".
5. White Balance & Colour Temperature
Tip: Use the white balance
"auto" setting. If you get strange colour tints, try to
calibrate the white balance or change to preset settings
to suit the colour temperature of the light source.
Colour temperature measures the colour quality of a light
source. The concept of colour temperature is based on the
radiation emitted by a black-body and is very technical
and complicated. To the photographer, the lighting is "warm"
if there is a yellowish hue, and "cool" if there is a bluish
hue.
Digital photography brings a whole new dimension to the
area of colour temperature in photography. Previously, in
conventional photography, the photographer had to use colour
correction filters to correct for the various colour temperatures.
There was also the choice of tungsten or daylight-balanced
film. For digital photographers, things are less complicated
as colour temperature correction is usually automatic.
White balance is quite a new term for conventional photographers,
although videographers have long been using it. Basically,
white balance is what the camera perceives as true white.
A white object may be yellowish-white under tungsten lights,
slightly greenish-white under fluorescent lights, or slightly
bluish-white on a cloudy day. Basically, the camera tries
to adjust the colour balance to achieve a tonality of white
that is "correct".
In most cases, the white balance is quite satisfactory.
If the predominant light source for a scene comes from a
tungsten light bulb, the image will appear yellowish. Most
digital cameras automatically correct for it, and produce
an image without the yellow hue. Certain top-end models
allow you to calibrate the white balance by selecting an
area in the scene that is white. This option gives you the
highest accuracy.
On the other hand, there are times when we do want to retain
the yellow hue to give an image more life. Play around with
the various white balance settings to attain the most pleasing
colour balance.